Thursday, February 19, 2009
Diane Von Furstenberg's flower children have definitely grown up for Fall 2009. Picking rich, sumptuous fabrics, glam prints and beautiful brocades, the collection was a touch of subtle glamour for a season that's driven mainly by the recession. Huge cocoon coats and slouchy draped cardigans concealed layered looks in clashing prints like leopard, Prince of Wales check and geometric swirls. The usual wrap dresses, chic knits and wearable shaped were teamed with leggings, huge pom-pom hats and chunky jewellery for a youthful edge. By night, it got more glam with bacofoil dresses, animal print sheaths and sequin shifts.
[all images courtesy of Coutorture.com]
I just love Philip Stephens, and this autumn/winter 2009-10 collection of Unconditional luxury basics proves why. Warm, fun and tough-cool, this label does not disappoint. Stephens created a look with a strong silhouette with funnel necks that displayed his need to cocoon, protect and exude confidence.
Fine cashmeres, leathers, merino wool and fine silk and cottons in black, white, grey and splashes of orange or yellow were interspersed with rugged zippers and tough boots.
A slim purple velvet jumpsuit was my fave pick, along with the strong lines of the menswear tuxes and trench coats lending a sophisticated aura.
ALDO boots and heels were rugged and fierce, adding to the confidence of the collection. The Unconditional show was set in a relaxed atmosphere high above the city, where models and fans alike mingled on a Sunday afternoon, but you never forgot you were seeing some sexy history being made.
Guess what? Body-con ain't going anywhere according to the folks at Preen. Their autumn/winter 2009-10 collection was choc-full of sliced body-con frocks offering just a glimpse of skin here and there. Add to that oversized houndstooth coats, fluffed up with Mongolian wool in black and white, skinny shiny trousers, and mini mod dresses in check. There was an interesting use of leather in one tight-fitting dress, modelled by Catherine McNeil, which featured a knot in the middle and cut-outs all over. Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi's continual pushing of the envelope was even enough to bring Kanye West and his entourage to the front row. Yes, really.
[Photos: via Coutorture]
Max Azria went sombre and sophisticated with his BCBG line for autumn/winter 2009-10. While there was lots of eveningwear, it wasn't really the stuff that dance and bar night dresses are made of - BCBG's usual niche. Beautiful draped velvets and modern silhouettes seemed made for an older customer, rather than who BCBG usually designs for. Perhaps Azria's plan is to shift BCBG a bit upmarket and hold onto the girls who wore the line in their younger days to make room for BCBGeneration's younger customer.
Unfortunately, her famous family (and their significant others) remains the best thing about Charlotte Ronson's fashion line, as far as I can tell. Samantha Ronson and Lindsay Lohan were on hand for the autumn/winter 2009-10 collection, as were Mark Ronson and The Like drummer Tennessee Thomas. The clothing was sort of amateurish styling of Marc Jacobs parodies. I did like the floral print used, and the floral shirt dress (pictured above) was one of the pieces I enjoyed from the show.
Samantha Ronson and Lindsay Lohan.
Tennessee Thomas and Mark Ronson.